When the wind blows over the ocean, its energy is transferred to the water due to the friction between the two. However, the majority of the waves you need to know about as a surfer are due to the wind.
#Wave break pro
In times of perfect alignment between the sun and the moon, these tidal waves grow to gargantuan proportions to the delight of pro big wave surfers. The ocean's indecisiveness whether to submit to the gravitational pull of the sun, the moon, or the earth creates tidal waves.
In actuality, it works in tandem with other natural phenomena like winds, earthquakes, and the gravitational pull of the sun and the moon.Ī strong underwater earthquake (or a similar sort of explosive phenomenon) can create waves as huge as tsunamis. How Waves Come Into ExistenceĪlthough it seems as if the ocean is a mystical place where huge waves are always present to remind us of the brevity and lightness of being (especially when you see all the creatures living in its hidden depths on a BBC documentary you can find on Netflix), it’s not really so. Maybe they frown upon each other, too, and gossip, like: "Wow, look at that sucker! It broke! It broke on the shores of Florida! Of all places!" But the secret lives of waves is a topic for another article. Of course, we are blissfully unaware of the point of view of waves themselves. Unlike broken people, though, broken waves are not necessarily entities you want to avoid, especially if you're a beginner surfer. What happens next relies upon the capability (or capacity) of the latest entity to carry or transform that energy.Ī life coach would have said that not knowing what to do with that energy and being unable to transform it into something useful is what breaks people. Yes, the natural world is made up of energy, and things happen when the energy of one entity (in our case, mostly the wind) comes into contact with another entity (the ocean): a transfer occurs between the two, resulting in a new form of entity-the wave. Breaking Wavesīefore telling you all about the breaking waves, we first need to cover how the waves form in the first place, because in the end, and running the risk of sounding like a self-affirmed and self-appointed life coach, it's all about energy. Therefore, without developing a bond based on knowledge with the ocean, there's no real advance through the waves of progression.Īttempting no further to convince you of the imperative character of understanding the ocean, let's plunge into it and see how waves tend to break. In surfing, rather philosophically, every other aspect gains meaning only in their relationship to the wave. OMBE training almost wholly consists of understanding: part of it is about understanding your body, mind, or equipment, but understanding those without connecting them to the ocean will bear no fruit in the end.
Moreover, the surfer who understands the wave energy and why and how a wave breaks holds a fair bit of advantage over those that don't.
#Wave break how to
A surfer who knows how to read surf forecasts and the ocean floor has the upper hand from the get-go. Let us inform you as shortly as it could get: that is not the case. At first, these factors might seem to be external, and therefore you might think that you have no control over them and you can't do anything about them. There are other factors that come into play such as the weather and the wave quality on a particular day. A good surf session doesn't only depend on your superior choices in equipment or abilities as an athlete.
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